Cape Coral R/Sea Hawks Handbook
Revision 14 September 2008

 

1. What’s it all about?
 
What is radio-control flying?
Control of a model aircraft by use of a radio. The aircraft can be an airplane, powered by an electric motor or “gas” engine (gasoline or model fuel), or a powered helicopter or an un-powered glider. Batteries, usually rechargeable, power the transmitter and internal radio. The range for standard radios is farther than you can see the moderate-size models, perhaps half a mile with the model in the air. The range for the radios that come with ultra-light, small, electric-powered planes is considerably less. No, you don’t need a license for this kind of radio, but people with an amateur (“Ham”) license can use special frequencies.
 
Can anyone learn to do this?
If you have reasonable vision, reasonable eye-hand coordination and are willing to take instruction, you can probably do this. It is neither necessary nor even very helpful to have full-scale flying experience. More concentrated instruction is more efficient. One or two lessons a week will be far superior to one a month.
 
Where is the flying field?
Just west of Nelson and off Wilmington, in the northern reaches of Cape Coral. There is a map elsewhere in this handbook. Look for the small brown road signs.
 
Do I have to compete?
No. In fact, most of us don’t. We have competitions and special events that close the field to general flying about 12 days a year. That leaves 353 days for the other people.
 
Why join when I can fly on my own?
In general, for the same reasons most of us don’t play golf, go fishing or go bowling alone. We enjoy each other, help each other and learn from each other. There are people, we know, who cannot tolerate any kind of organization with “rules.” This activity involves remotely controlled, rapidly moving powered objects operating in three dimensions. In order to be as safe as possible, organization and rules are a necessity.
 
Are flying sessions always organized?
In the sense that safety regulations and good operating practices are always in effect, yes. In the sense that we don’t start engines before 9:00 (Good Neighbor policy), yes. In the sense that we fly gliders on Saturday, and power planes when the glider people are finished, yes. In the sense that somebody tells you what to do, on a flight-by flight basis, no.
 
How much time will it require?
Even with an “Almost Ready to Fly” model, it could take a week of evenings to get it ready. With regular flying sessions, it might take three or four weeks to solo.
After that, it’s your choice. People who build their own models spend many (enjoyable) hours doing so. There will be repairs to make, from time to time. Most of us like to have more than one model ready to fly.
 
Why can’t I just learn by myself?
You can, and many have done so. That is usually an expensive and discouraging process, however. If you plan to learn with a new model, that model must be “trimmed out” so it will fly straight-and-level, and doing that while learning how to fly is a tough assignment. Things happen quickly in the air.
 
What happens if I crash?
If you fly long enough, you will have a crash. That sounds pessimistic, but the good part is that sometimes we retire models just from old age. With model longevity, some of it is good management and some of it is luck. Some crash damage can be repaired, some is just too bad to repair, and some of us are more willing than others to make repairs. If you are sure you could not tolerate a crash of your pride and joy, this hobby is not for you.
Many of us find that if you leave the crashed plane in the corner for a week, it doesn’t look so bad after all.

2. Joining the R/Sea Hawks
 
Who can join?
Anyone who is interested in radio control models. We have no age limits on either end of the scale. We have male and female members. You must also join AMA, the national organization, which is explained elsewhere. We have reduced rates for family memberships.
In order to be happy with your choice, you must be a compatible kind of person, who appreciates the need for organization and safety. Not everyone can conform to the needs of the activity and of the group; such people should seek another hobby.
 
Try out policy
How can I be sure I really want to do this, before I spend the money? First, just come out and watch, and talk to people. Read some model magazines. Check out the prices at the hobby shop, look for sales of used equipment (at the hobby shop, on the bulletin board at the field). Then, before you join either the Club or AMA, you can get a flight on an instructor’s model, using the Buddy Box system, and you will be flying on the instructor’s insurance. After that, you both spend and join or you forget about it. If you decide you don’t like golf, what do you do with the clubs? If you decide you don’t like fishing, what do you do with the equipment? No hobby comes with a guarantee.
We get some new members every year, and we lose some old ones. Many of us have been doing this for thirty years or more, while some quit in six months. Life is like that.
 
Joining up
Applications are in a box at the field. The club officers have applications. The hobby shop has applications. One is sent to AMA, the other to the Club treasurer. Costs depend on age (under 16, 16-18, 19 and over), for both organizations. Dues are paid annually. If you join the Club with less than six months remaining in the year, the rate is reduced.
Cost of Club membership is equal to about four gallons of model fuel, so that’s the least of the considerations.
If you are new to the hobby, instructors are listed in the newsletter, as is the Coordinator of Instruction. The coordinator will arrange for an instructor—work through him. Instruction is free to members.
 
Then what?
If you have been flying solo, elsewhere, you demonstrate your competency to one of the instructors, and your understanding of our safety regulations, and you continue flying solo. If this is a new experience, you ask the Coordinator of Instruction to find an instructor for you, you arrange a schedule with your instructor, and the fun begins.
Keep in mind that the reason we do this is not to sit around and argue about rules, but to have fun, and we do. You are most welcome to join us.

[HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS] 

3. Club Organization and important relationships.
 
The Club is a not-for-profit corporation, registered with the State of Florida. There is a monthly meeting of the general membership, and a monthly meeting of the Board of Directors. The Board is responsible for day-to-day management of the Club. The officers are chosen annually by the general membership.
Officers are: President, Vice president, Treasurer, Secretary, Field Marshals (4), Safety Officers (3), Club Coordinator and Event Coordinator.

 
A newsletter is published before each meeting, or generally 12 times a year. The newsletter contains news and information of general interest and advises the members of the date and location of the next general meeting. The names, addresses and telephone numbers of the Board of Directors are published with each edition, as well as names and telephone numbers of active instructors.

The Club is chartered by AMA—Academy of Model Aeronautics—the national organization that promotes model aviation, coordinates contest activity, promulgates rules and guidelines for general and contest flying activity, and supplies our insurance. Our insurance covers the “owner of the field,” in this case the City of Cape Coral, and is secondary insurance for the individual members, with homeowners’ insurance being primary.  AMA is about seventy years old, and is a member of the international aviation governing body (FAI). AMA is currently headquartered in Muncie, Indiana, which includes a national flying site and Museum of Model Aviation, both of which are outstanding. Benefits of membership in this organization, which is mandatory for members of the R/Sea Hawks, include a monthly magazine.
The Club flying site is a park, and belongs to the City of Cape Coral. The Parks and Recreation Department has designated the Club to manage the field, with the authority to enforce the rules for safe flying. City Park rules and Club rules are posted at the field.  Except for some signs and picnic tables, the improvements to the field have been provided by the Club, and maintained by the Club.

 
 [HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS] 

 
 
4. Club History
 
Cape Coral had only 5,000 residents in 1965, then became one of the fastest-growing communities in the entire country. It was only natural that some of these residents were modelers. In a community that consisted mostly of roads without houses or telephone poles, finding a flying field was easy.
In 1977 three modelers found each other and formed a club. This club was chartered by the parent organization, the Academy of Model Aeronautics, and incorporated as a not-for-profit entity. We have been in continuous operation, since.

We flew from anyplace handy, but houses and telephone poles appeared, complaints were directed to City Hall, and we were asked to move. The City offered a park, our present location, and improvements began. Improvements continue, and what you see now, a really nice, organized flying site, is the result of a lot of time, energy and money, almost all ours.

At present (2008) we have a 60 x 600 foot asphalt runway, with a large, grass field contiguous with the runway, adequate for winch-launched glider flying. A cement pit area parallels the runway, behind a 3 foot-high safety fence. There are four shelters, some picnic benches and designated parking areas, all of these behind a 4 foot high fence.  Sea Hawk Airpark continues as a City park, with the club responsible for management, maintenance and flying safety.  

Current membership is about 300, ranging in age from remarkably young to remarkably old. Perhaps a third retire to a northern address when the weather assumes sub-tropical characteristics. The rest soldier on, just earlier in the day. Interests are many and varied. The majority fly sport models with internal combustion engines. Others fly giant scale with larger “gas” engines. Others fly Old-Timer, models designed in the ‘30s and ‘40s. Some fly gliders, still with radio control, and these also range from simple sport models to large and complex soaring machines. Helicopters are popular as is electric power, ranging from the simple and cheap to the complex and expensive. Authentic turbine power is relatively new, and we have several members who fly these high-tech planes. We hold organized events related to most of these special interests.

We have a panel of instructors, and instruction is free. We welcome new members, and pride ourselves on being a friendly group of pleasant people.

 
[HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS] 

 
5. Getting Club News
 
Where do I find Club news?
The on-line newsletter is the primary source. It is published about 12 times a year after the general meeting.  Some announcements will be posted on the bulletin board at the field.  Occasionally, an urgent message is disseminated by post card.  We have a website: http://www.rseahawks.org/  You can find the directions to the field, coming events, reports of recent events, etc. on the website. Links to AMA and other pertinent websites are provided.
 
Where are the meetings?
We meet at the Gulf Coast Center, 1333 Santa Barbara Boulevard, in Cape Coral. Take the first left after you drive through the entrance, to the small, one-story building. Presentations are at 7:00, business meeting to follow. Any changes in this schedule will be announced in the newsletter. Attendance at meetings is appreciated.

6. R/C flying on the web
 
There are several “bulletin-board” sites, RC Universe  http://www.rcuniverse.com, RC Groups http://www.rcgroups.com, and WattFlyer RC http://www.wattflyer.com and doubtedly others. These are specific for the interest, such as pattern, scale, sport, electric, racing, sailplanes, jet turbines, etc. AMA has a website http://www.modelaircraft.org, with information. Various “special interest groups” have websites, such as Giant Scale, IMAC and League of Silent Flight. You can find news and upcoming events this way.
 
 R/C flying on your computer
 
There are several flight simulator programs relating to models. This allows people to practice without tearing up equipment. Is it worth it? Naturally, opinions vary, but it is helpful in at least one particular:
When the model is flying away from you, orientation is easy, and if you push the control sticks to the right, the model turns to the right. Anyone can immediately grasp that. But when the model is coming towards you, right and left are “reversed”—at least, it seems that way. Beginners have to learn this with practice, and after a while it becomes automatic, so you don’t have to think about it. It can be hard to learn. With a simulator, at least you won’t have a crash while learning.  Is a computer simulator necessary? No.

 
 [HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS] 

 7. Gear
 
 “What’s the cheapest way to do it?":
There is no cheap way to do this, not really. It’s not a cheap hobby. Even if you buy used equipment, which is certainly possible, that won’t be “cheap.” It depends, of course, on your definition of cheap. It’s like fishing or golf or other hobbies, with initial cost and ongoing expenses. It is possible to buy used equipment. Check the classified ads, check The Shopper, and check for notices on the shelter at our flying field. The hobby shops always have a few used models for sale, and they will often be complete with radio and engine.

• The absolutes:
  A model, preferably a “trainer,” one designed for that purpose. If you try to start with a P-51, you won’t get very far. Bigger ones, .40-size and above (that refers to engine displacement), fly better and are easier to see. Little ones are less expensive and use less fuel. 

• A radio, which means transmitter, receiver, battery, servos, switch and charger. 

• An engine, size appropriate for the model. Cost increases with size.

• Alternative: electric-powered model, becoming increasingly popular.

• A can of fuel. 

• A pump--hand or battery operated-- or a bulb to transfer the fuel. 

• A glow plug battery cable & connector. 

• A spare glow plug and a few spare propellers.

• A “chicken stick” to start the engine, or an electric starter.

• A box to carry a few tools and spare parts.

 
Where do I get this stuff? There are many discount, catalogue hobby outlets, with advertisements in the model magazines, there are Internet hobby sites, and there are a few local hobby shops. We recommend the latter. You get good advice, you don’t wait ten days and you don’t pay postage. The local people support our club, and we like to return the support.
 
What do most beginners do? Most beginners go down to the hobby shop and ask for a start-up collection of hardware, surrendering their credit card and looking the other way. There are some options.
 
Model: choice is already built (or ARF, almost ready-to-fly) and home built (by you). Most people start with an ARF, which requires some assembly but no real building, and perhaps a construction kit to work on while they learn to fly the ARF. This is usually a .40-sized model, which means a high-wing trainer of about 55-inch wingspan. The .60-size models are larger, cost more, and require a larger engine, which also costs more and uses more fuel. The smaller one is fine to start with; any model smaller than that is not fine to start with, in the writer’s opinion. An ARF usually comes with wheels, an engine mount and a fuel tank. A construction model will need those as an additional investment. Either way, the instruction booklet will be excellent; if you can follow instructions and have some eye-hand coordination, you can do this.
Engine: an engine to match the model, so let’s say a .40 (cu. inch) engine with plain bearings. This is cheaper (really) than one with ball bearings, and is quite adequate for a first model.
Radio: a basic radio, four or five channels (means individual controls), which comes as a set with the other items mentioned above. A radio is durable, can be transferred from model to model, and can last ten years with a little luck.
Rubber bands: the wing of a trainer is usually held on with rubber bands. Use new, #64 latex rubber bands, available at the hobby shops. Definitely don’t go for cheap, here.
Spare parts: you will need a spare glow plug (acts like a spark plug in your lawn mower, but doesn’t spark) and another propeller or two, size to match the engine. Most beginners use the composite props, because they are more durable; the writer believes wooden props are safer. Either way, you must use proper technique and care.
Glow battery: a rechargeable battery with a connector that attaches to the glow plug, for starting. It is removed once the engine is running.
Chicken stick: a simple device to flip the propeller for starting, rather than your fingers. Don’t use your fingers.
Fuel: a gallon of 5% fuel with 18% oil. The 5% means nitromethane, and the oil is usually a combination of synthetic oil and castor oil, 80-20. Get a bottle of Baker’s AAA castor oil from the hobby shop and add 2 ½ ounces to the gallon of fuel. Castor oil from the drug store is a bad idea (hasn’t been “de-gummed”). Lubrication is the only friend your engine is likely to have.
Pump of some sort to get the fuel into the fuel tank. Simplest is a big rubber bulb, made for this purpose. Next is a hand-operated pump, which is easier and more elegant. Best, but not necessary, is an electric pump, which is most elegant and works off the battery in your field box. If you go this route, consider an
Electric starter: which makes starting a little easier and helps keep your hands away from the propeller. It obviously would cost more than a chicken stick, and requires a 12-volt rechargeable battery, which would be the same one powering the electric fuel pump. This is a small battery, about motorcycle size. It will fit in a
Field box: which you can make from your own design, make from a kit, or buy already assembled. It can be a cigar box, if you don’t plan to use the power options. It you get the power options, you will need a
Power Panel, which allows you to run the various power options from one battery. You can do without the glow battery if you have a power panel, which compensates a little for the cost. The field box will hold your spare parts and a
Few Tools: you will need a wrench to change the propeller, several standard and Phillips screwdrivers, and other tools will come to mind as you work on the model and see the hardware involved, all of which has the capability of falling off. If you bring every tool you could possibly need, you might not be able to lift the box.
 
Now, what if you plan to begin with a glider—then all you need is a radio, the same one, and a glider, usually an ARF 78” wingspan model, requiring only assembly and installation of the radio. Gliders are less expensive and require much less support equipment.
Either way, don’t forget your sunglasses, hat and sunscreen.
 
Build or Buy? ARFs are becoming increasingly popular because they are increasingly good. Not everyone likes to build, and not everyone thinks he/she has the time (which is usually not true, but we’ll not quibble). You won’t have the emotional investment in the ARF as you will with one you built with your own sweat and blood (model knives are really sharp). For many, the real fun is flying what you built yourself. Others don’t care and have a ball with one made in China, by people unknown and unseen. It’s optional.
 
Bottom line: the hobby shops have package deals on these things, so the price is less than sum of what each would sell for, individually. That’s what most people opt for. You can get by without the electric fuel pump, the electric starter, the 12-volt battery plus power panel and custom field box, saving these things for later. Maybe you will decide this isn’t such an exciting hobby, after all. That’s always possible. Maybe you will decide it’s the greatest thing ever (true) and buy every convenience available—which you can always do, later.
 
   [HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS] 

8. Flying field etiquette
 
We have etiquette? Certainly. All activities have etiquette. In golf, you don’t talk while someone is making a shot. In fishing, you help pay for the gas. Such things are expected.
 
At the flying field, you begin by making it easy for people to identify you (and your transmitter). Wear your name badge, which also makes it easier to meet people. Have your channel number on the antenna, have the appropriate flag on the antenna (red, for “air” frequencies on all but the ham band), and keep your transmitter in the impound area when not in use.
If you find another transmitter on your channel, find the owner, identify yourself and remind him that you will be sharing the frequency. He will want to know that.
If others will be using your frequency, limit your use to fifteen minutes at a time. Don’t expect to adjust your engine for thirty minutes and then fly for fifteen.
Remember that another flyer may now be on the field with your frequency, even though he wasn’t there when you arrived. Keep checking.
If you are going to spend some time adjusting or breaking in an engine, go to either end of the pit area.
Start your engine only on the cement pit area, with your plane restrained and the nose pointed toward the runway.
When moving from the pit to the entrance ramp, keep your plane under physical control at all times. After landing, shut down the engine before your plane reaches the pit area.
The club requires no more than four planes in the air at any one time. If there are already four planes in the air you must wait. The air does get crowded, and mid-air collisions are expensive for both parties.
If you take off with others already in the air, you should take off and land in the same direction as the others, unless there has been a significant wind shift, and in that case call out what you are doing. Follow a racetrack pattern, once in the air.
Before taxiing out for takeoff, look for other planes. Call out your intentions—this doesn’t always work, because of noise and distance, but you should try. Call out your intentions when getting ready to land. Pass along call-outs made by others.
If your model is on the runway without power, call out, “On the runway.” If you have to walk out to retrieve your model, call out, “Man on the field.” If you hear such a call-out, pass it on.
The runway is for takeoffs and landings. Do not make a pass over the runway below an altitude of fifty feet. Low passes are made over the grass, in an upwind direction.
 
Be courteous. Be alert. Offer assistance. If you see a bad situation developing, even though you are not involved, call out. Pass along call-outs; it’s a long way from one end of the flight line to the other. Learn from mistakes, both yours and others,’ and do better next time.

[HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS]

 TO OBTAIN A COPY OF THIS HANDBOOK CLICK HERE

9. Glossary

• Aircraft: any mechanical device that flies, with or without power

• ARC: almost-ready-to-cover, a model that has been built at a factory but not covered

• ARF: almost-ready-to-fly, a model that has been built and covered at a factory but still needs some assembly.

• Battery: source of electrical energy. Usually rechargeable, mostly “Nicads,” but lithium and nickel metal-hydride are becoming popular.

• Break-in: a period of operation for a new engine, to allow the parts to mate under low load with adequate lubrication. Consult the instruction manual.

• Buddy Box: a transmitter electronically connected to another transmitter for the purpose of instruction.

• Channel number: an emblem that attaches to the transmitter antenna, indicating the frequency. This is required.

• Chicken stick: a simple device, such as a section of garden hose, for flipping a propeller. Commercially available, they keep fingers away from the propeller.

• Computer radio: a more recent variation of the transmitter, allowing more flexibility and precision. These are more expensive, but not greatly so.

• Dead stick: a landing without power. Such landings have priority.

• Field box: a container for tools, spare parts, fuel. Can be simple or complex, homemade, kit-made or prefabricated.

• Four-stroke or four-cycle engine: internal combustion engine similar to automobile engine; two valves per cylinder; four piston stokes per power cycle.

• Four-way wrench: a small tool, shaped like a plus sign, that can be used to replace propellers and glow plugs.

• Frequency board: located in the shelter, with one square for each frequency (11—60, plus ham frequencies). Placing a tag in this square secures that frequency for your exclusive use (for a limited period of time).

• Frequency tag: your club membership card and AMA license, usually laminated together, with a clip for attachment to the frequency board.

• Fuel pump: a device for transferring fuel to the model’s fuel tank. A rubber bulb, a hand-powered mechanical pump or battery-powered pumps are all effective options, at increasing cost.

• Glow battery: a battery, usually rechargeable, for starting a glow-ignition engine

• Glow engine: internal combustion engine using a glow plug rather than a spark plug for ignition

• Glow fuel: methanol, oil and nitromethane in various concentrations. Lubricant can be synthetic oil, castor oil or a combination

• Glow plug: a device that resembles a spark plug, that maintains its own heat after the engine is started and the battery disconnected.

• Hobby: an area in one’s life into which one sows time, fertilizes with money and harvests pleasure

• Instructor: a person, possibly destined for sainthood, who teaches others to fly.

• Needle valve: an external part of a model engine carburetor, for adjusting the air-fuel mixture.

• No-fly zone: at our field, south of the runway. Fly “out front,” not over the pits, shelters or parking lot.

• Propeller: two-or-three bladed device attached to the engine to push or pull the aircraft through the air. They must be treated with great respect.

• Receiver: the “receiving” part of a radio control system, located inside the aircraft.

• Racetrack pattern: flight in an oblong pattern, with a half-circle on each end, similar to a racetrack of any kind. Helpful in avoiding mid-air collisions.

• Rubber bands: used to hold the wing on a fuselage, usually a trainer. For most models this means #64, latex, quality rubber bands for best dependability

• Safety fence: a knee-high fence that separates the runway from the pit area. Always stand behind it, and you will eventually be glad you did.

• Sailplane: an aircraft that flies without power; capable of soaring.

• Scale model: one, which resembles an actual, full-size aircraft.

• Servo: a small, battery-powered device that produces mechanical activity on receipt of a radio command.

• Starter: a device for starting an engine; powered by a 12-volt battery, it protects fingers and improves reliability.

• Tail restraint: anything, from a person to a device that fits into holes drilled in our pit area that prevents the model from moving. At our field, this is mandatory when starting the engine.

• Two-stroke or two-cycle engine: internal combustion engine with no valves; similar to a lawn mower engine, with two piston strokes per power cycle.

• Transmitter: the “sending” part of a radio control system. Regulated; licensed by the FCC. Power is typically 0.5 watt.

• Trainer: a model, usually with a high wing, that is relatively inexpensive, relatively stable and relatively easy to control, for the purpose of learning to fly.

• Upwind takeoff/landing: the model is moving into the wind, which is the usual situation.

• Voltmeter or expanded-scale voltmeter (ESV): an instrument for monitoring the condition of the batteries. Most effective with a simulated load.

TO OBTAIN A COPY OF THIS HANDBOOK

[HOME] - [EVENTS] - [PHOTOS] -[CONTACT] - [ABOUT US] - [JOIN] - [INFO] - [MAP] - [LINKS]

Copyright© 2008